Back in October 2011, my GPS (a heroic little TomTom) decided I needed character development and rerouted me off the autobahn onto a skinny ribbon of alpine asphalt called the Splügen Pass (Passo dello Spluga). Cue snow, slush, no guardrails, and a drop that looked like it ended somewhere near the Earth’s core. I actually mounted a camera on the dash as a “black box,” which is what you do when you’re narrating your own survival documentary.
Fast-forward to summer 2024: same pass, clear skies, clean tarmac, me actually admiring the view instead of bargaining with higher powers. It was the exact same route… yet two different worlds. If you like your travel with a side of adrenaline—and then a second lap for pure beauty—this one belongs on your bucket list.
I’m Matt, your Americano abroad. Buckle up; let’s climb.
What (and Where) Is the Splügen Pass?
The pass: Splügen Pass / Passo dello Spluga
Connects: Graubünden, Switzerland ↔ Lombardy, Italy
Elevation: ~2,113 m / 6,932 ft
Vibe: Engineering ballet of switchbacks, stone tunnels, cliff-hugging ledges, and a finale that rolls you down toward Lake Como.
It’s not the fastest way from Zurich to Como—that’s what tunnels are for—but it might be the most memorable. In bad weather, it’s a “did we update our wills?” kind of memorable. In summer, it’s the “pull over every five minutes for photos” kind.
The Two Drives: Why Season Changes Everything
October 2011 — The “What Am I Doing?” Edition
Surface: compacted snow, slush, and ice “polish.”
Traffic: snowplow in front of me… with chains; me… without.
Guardrails: theoretical.
Inner monologue: “If I slip here, I will literally slide into Italy.”
I crawled switchback after switchback, passing occasional locals who waved like this was all very normal (which worried me more). When the pass finally tipped downward toward Italy, I promised myself I’d never do it this way again.
Summer 2024 — The “We Live Here Now” Edition
Surface: dry, clean, confidence-boosting.
Visibility: infinite blues and greens; mountains slice the horizon.
Pace: steady. Passing zones appear exactly when you need them.
Mood: let’s linger… then linger again.
Same corners. Same tunnels. Zero terror. With the right weather, Splügen flips from survival sport to postcard factory.
When to Go (and When to Don’t)
Best window: June–September. Snow’s off the road, wildflowers are out, and the alpine light is pure cinema.
Shoulder gamble: May and October can deliver bluebird days or surprise flurries. Check local road reports the morning of.
Winter: The high route is typically closed; the region uses lower tunnels and alternative crossings for good reason.
Is It Safe? (Yes… If You Respect the Mountain)
Weather first. If you see fresh snow, fog, black ice, pivot to a tunnel route (e.g., San Bernardino). No heroics.
Vehicle choice. Compact car with good tires is perfect. In shoulder seasons, ask for chains or winter tires.
Drive style. Low gear on descents, no riding brakes, eyes through the turn, smooth inputs. The road is your friend when you are its friend.
Timing. Mornings have lighter traffic and cleaner air. Afternoons glow, but summer storms can pop.
Route Snapshot: Zurich → Splügen → Lake Como
Zurich → Chur → Splügen: Fast motorways to Chur, then the scenery ramps up as you aim for Splügen village.
The climb: Classic hairpins, short stone tunnels, and those “who built this?” retaining walls.
The crest: High alpine plateau near Montespluga on the Italian side—small lake, chapel, sheep traffic possible.
The descent: Sweeping views, gentler rhythm as you drop toward Chiavenna, then glide down the valley toward Lake Como.
Total driving time is not about distance; it’s about corners. Build in stops on purpose.
Where to Pull Over (On Purpose)
Splügen (CH): Pretty village base with old timber houses—ideal pre-pass espresso and last civilized bathroom.
Viamala Gorge (detour): A short diversion for a vertical slice of geology—stairs and spectacular rock walls.
Montespluga (IT): High-alt water, tiny hamlet, sheep with opinions.
Chiavenna (IT): Granite, waterfalls, and crotto restaurants (stone cellars serving local cheeses, bresaola, and Valtellina wine).
North Lake Como towns (IT): Colico, Domaso, Gravedona—sleepier and less selfie-mobbed than Bellagio; perfect for a first dip into the lake.
What You’ll See (When You’re Not White-Knuckling)
Stacked hairpins that look like a child drew them and an engineer said “okay.”
Bare-rock tunnels dripping with mountain water (yes, really).
Slate roofs in tiny hamlets that feel carved into the slope.
“Is that the bottom?” drops that disappear into blue haze.
Lakes catching the light like glass—first alpine tarns, then Como’s inland sea.
Bring a wide-angle for the drama and a 50mm for villages. Polarizer optional; smiles mandatory.
Sample Day Plan (Do This and Thank Me Later)
07:30 — Zurich → Chur
Coffee + fuel + snacks. Enjoy the smooth start.
09:30 — Splügen village
Espresso, weather check, quick stretch.
10:15 — Summit the pass
Pullouts for photos. Windows down. You’re not in a tunnel for a reason.
11:00 — Montespluga
Walk to the water, breathe, resist naming a sheep.
12:30 — Chiavenna lunch
Order pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta) or go crotto for local cheese and cured meats.
14:00 — Roll to North Lake Como
Check into a lakeside B&B in Gravedona or Domaso.
Golden hour — Ferry hop
Let the lake sell you on staying a second night.
Splügen vs. “The Easy Way”
San Bernardino Tunnel (A13): Faster, safer in bad weather, zero views. Choose this when forecasts snarl.
Splügen Pass: Slower, spectacular, story-rich. Choose this when the skies bless you.
Think of tunnels as your backup plan, not your default.
Gear & Car Tips (The Practical Stuff)
Footwear: You’ll want to hop out often. Wear shoes you can walk in.
Layers: Even in August, wind at the top can bite.
Brakes: Downshift on descents; if they smell hot, pull over and admire a view while they cool.
Maps: Offline map downloaded. Alpine cell coverage can be moody.
Fuel: Top up before leaving the main valley; don’t count on high-alt pumps.
If You’re Nervous (Or Just Sensible)
Pick a bluebird day.
Drive from south to north first (Como → Chiavenna → Splügen). The grades feel a hair gentler.
Go off-peak: Tuesday morning > Sunday afternoon in July.
Stop often: The pass isn’t a race. It’s a ride.
The Truth About “Scary Roads”
It’s not about danger; it’s about respect. In 2011, I had winter conditions, no chains, and a head full of “this was a mistake.” In 2024, with clean pavement and patience, it was all joy. Same mountain, different mindset—and season. You’ll be fine. And you’ll never forget it.